fleck 7000 valve manual

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fleck 7000 valve manual

Designed and manufactured with the dependability, performance and features that you want and need. The 7000 control valve offers the highest service and backwash flows available for residential and light commercial applications in its valve class. The valve is manufactured from a durable fiber-reinforced polymer and features a series of optional high flow accessories. These include a quick-connect by-pass and a 32mm distributor system. With the advanced electronic controls the 7000 valve provides optical piston positioning, simplified wiring, along with the proven Fleck seal and spacer design. The 7000 offers technology and performance at an outstanding value. A list can be found here. Please type an address. NOTE: Be sure the tank is level and on a firm, clean base. 2. Perform all plumbing according to local plumbing codes. 3. When the number of days since the last Regeneration reaches the preset number of days, a Regeneration cycle initiates at the preset Regeneration Time. Program the number of days between Regeneration cycles and the Regeneration time using the 7000 Control Start-Up Procedures. The flow dot flashes in direct relation to the water flow rate through the unit. As treated water is used, the Volume Remain- ing display counts down from a maximum value to zero. The 7000 controller performs 5 basic types of Regeneration systems. The type of system is selected by the sys- tem manufacturer and set in the Master Programming Mode.The Regeneration Cycle Step being programmed appears in the first digit of the display. Each display is used to set the duration time in minutes of that specific step in the regeneration cycle. The Regeneration Cycle Step being programmed is displayed in the first digit of the display. Each display is used to set the duration time in minutes of that specific step in the Regeneration cycle. Set the desired Time of Day for Regeneration to occur. The Regeneration Cycle Step being programmed appears in the first digit of the display.http://www.aparto.ru/temp/images/4-manual-organ-for-sale.xml

Each display is used to set the duration time in minutes of that specific step in the regeneration cycle. Apply pressure to the left while rotating the board back. 2. When all the way down, snap the circuit board into place under the notches on the right. Page 29. Page 11 and 12: POWERHEAD ASSEMBLY11176 13125411181 Page 13 and 14: BYPASS ASSEMBLY41118 Rev A41147 Rev Page 15 and 16: CorrectionWater conditioner fails t Page 17 and 18: 2. When all the way down, snap the Page 19 and 20: INJECTOR FLOW DATATR18755 REVB Thank you, for helping us keep this platform clean. The editors will have a look at it as soon as possible. Read more here.This page will take you through the setup and programming of your water softener. Please follow along carefully! The tank is capped for shipping so that nothing falls out. Step one is to remove the plastic cap from the top of the tank. Next, install the upper media screen on the control valve, and then screw the control valve onto the tank: First, we'll attach the brine line. Take the lid off the brine well and you'll find the folded brine line. Pull this out of the brine well. The brine line connects the control valve to the brine tank (aka salt tank). At different stages of the regeneration fresh water is pumped into the brine tank, and salt water brine is sucked out of the brine tank. Here's how it's attached: Here's a video to show you how: We must connect a drain line to the Fleck 7000SXT control valve for this purpose. The open end of the drain line can be discharged in any of a number of ways (depending on climate and local plumbing code): Make a note of how the bypass valve opens and closes. It will be useful later. Since every installation is different it's difficult to provide step by step instruction on how to plumb your softener to your existing lines. But here are some important points to keep in mind: Crack open the bypass valve on the water inlet side and let the softener slowly fill with water.http://www.starwheelfoundation.org/userfiles/4-miracle-mj445-stainless-steel-manual-wheatgrass-juicer.xml

Once it's full of water, fully open both sides of the bypass so the softener is in 'service' mode. The resin in the softener comes ready-to-soften, so your cold water should be instantly soft. Since the water in your hot water tank is not softened, it may take a couple of days for the hot water to completely cycle through. Plug the power adapter into a wall outlet and let's get started: It's a good idea to force a regeneration while you're there to watch it, just to make sure everything is working properly and nothing is leaking. Before doing this, add two or three gallons of water to the brine tank. To force a regeneration, press and hold the regeneration button (four small arrows in the shape of a square). When you hear the motor begin to move, release the button. There are several stages to the regeneration process. During the second stage, the Brine Draw (BD) stage, it's important to make sure that the water in the brine tank is drawn up. Please watch this stage for several minutes to ensure the water level in the brine tank is going down. Check in on the first regeneration periodically to make sure nothing is leaking. You can now add salt to the brine tank. We get asked all the time what kind of salt we recommend. As far as we can tell, the performance of a softener has little to do with the type of salt used. Pretty much any salt you can get from the local hardware store, big box, grocery store, or gas station will work nicely. Just don't use salt licks or salt that's meant for spreading on sidewalks. All aQuatell water softeners are compatible with potassium salt also. Now go enjoy your beautiful, soft water. Remember we beat all competitors prices BY UP TO 10%. This is important for you in this economy. In addition, if you need more technical help you can contact us with the information below. Models are available with capacities up to 210,000 grains.

For general information regarding any approval certification partners identified in the specification sheet, please visit our certification partners’ websites. We are committed to providing the best customer experience possible and have provided these installation instructions to make things as simple as possible. If you have read through these entire instructions and FAQ section and still have questions feel free to contact us for further help. Our office hours are Monday-Friday 8:00 AM - 5:00 PM CT, and you can call us at 321-FILTERS (321-345-8377). You can also use the contact us link above to connect you to one of our technical experts. That being said, these instructions are designed as a general guideline for installation of your new system. Installation will require a basic knowledge of plumbing and plumbing connections. Pictures are included to help identify common parts, components, and connections, so what you have may vary slightly from what is pictured. Please apply these instructions with discretion and common sense. If you have read through this manual and the FAQ section and still have a question that has not been answered feel free to use the AFWFilters website to contact us. This can reveal missing parts or other items that can save significant headache if caught before you begin. If you are unsure of your abilities to install the system using these instructions please hire a qualified plumber. If hiring a plumber ensure they have a copy before they start. If you have read both of those and still have questions you may contact us for further help. We are not aware of local code requirements and are therefore not qualified to answer your plumbing questions. GFCI outlet is recommended. Use of an extension cord is NOT recommended. DO NOT operate the system without this connection. Inspect all parts for damage and report any damage immediately. Loaded systems will have all the resin in the tank.

Partially loaded systems will have some resin in the tank and some in one or more separate bags. Unloaded systems will have all the resin in separate bags and the tank will be very light (less than 30 pounds). The tanks are closed and the resin will return to the bottom once placed in the correct position. Any mixing of tank contents will correct itself after being placed in service. One end has a basket (basket design varies) and it usually ships inside the tank.Digital SXT has LCD panel. The mechanical has control knobs. This is an internal designation only and does NOT mean you received the SE. The SE controller has been discontinued for long enough it would be impossible to send one out anymore. This image will show the differences for easy reference. DO NOT load resin in this tank. It can be filled clear up to the top of the brine well if desired. After initial regeneration, there will always be water in the brine tank. Inside the tank is the brine well—a small cylinder about 4 inches (10.1 cm) in diameter—which contains the saftey float. There will also be an overflow fitting and tubing. Some systems may have a salt grid—a plastic grid on the bottom of the tank—but most do not as they are not needed when using salt pellets as recommended. This is what connects to your control head and provides standard fitting connections to hook up to your plumbing.Includes O-rings (already attached) to seal the connection and screws and clips to secure the connection. Typically connected to the control head when received.Tubing is usually inside the brine tank, the fittings are usually in a small bag, either with the tubing, with the instructions, or with the control head. Fittings include the brass brine nut, ferrule, insert, and screen. Included fitting(s) may vary, and some systems may not have additional fittings at all.Some larger systems may ship partially loaded (with some media in the tank and some separate) or completely unloaded for easier placement.

Most standard softeners will NOT have gravel, but Iron Pro softeners or very large softeners will. Amount and type of gravel will vary depending on system type and size. The system should ship with the required amount so you should use all resin included, however, excess media can occasionally be sent. Overfilling the tank may lead to improper system operation. If your system does not include one, a blender pitcher with the blade assembly removed will screw onto the tank and work well. This cuts down on the time the plumber has to spend and doing so is simple enough that most people can accomplish it in less than an hour. Once your system is near the installation location, remove the cap at the top of the tank by unscrewing it counterclockwise.There is a slight depression that the lower basket will slip into when properly positioned. Continue to the next step.A piece of tape or small bag will work, you just need to prevent resin from falling down the riser when you are loading it.When filling the tank, do so slowly and ensure the riser tube stays correctly positioned and centered in the tank. If you have more than one bag of resin the order does not matter and all of it should be used. A piece of tape or small bag will work, you just need to prevent resin from falling down the riser when you are loading it.This can help reduce air bubbles and ease initial startup.Verify they are present and free from nicks or kinks. Use a silicone lubricant or vegetable oil to both O-rings. It is also recommended to verify that the riser tube fits snugly into the pilot hole and that the O-ring seals around it.If your system includes one it is recommended that you use it. If you do not have one then it is not needed. If you do have one the larger end will fit inside the bottom of your control valve, with the smaller end sliding over the riser tube pointing down into the tank ( ).

Please note that locking tabs hold it in place so a fair amount of force is needed to install or remove it. Hand tighten only. Once properly tightened down check to ensure the tank and control head meet evenly all the way around. Some may come with one for the bottomw as well, but it is not needed. You will use the overflow fitting to attach it in the side of the brine tank, placing the overflow fitting through the lower hole on the brine tank and securing it through the brine well with the nut ( ). If you are having a hard time fitting your hand between the float and the brine well to secure the overflow nut you can remove the float by removing the nut that holds the float in place. Make sure to put it back when you are finished. Connect the brine line to the float assembly using the instructions for the connection style you have. To remove the tubing, hold the collet ring that sits around the tubing while pulling the tubing out.Push the tubing fully into the float, and tighten the nut, finger tight only.If you do not have a floor drain just leave the overflow as it is. The overflow is gravity fed and can not be ran higher than the fitting itself.The main system drain is separate and MUST be hooked up as instructed in the Plumbing Guidelines section. We recommend high quality salt pellets designed for water softeners for the best results. You will need to add at least one bag of salt and can fill it up to the top of the brine well. Ensure there is salt in the brine tank at all times. The resin is precharged and able to treat the water out of the box. A later step will have the control head put the correct amount of water in the brine tank for you.Once plugged in, verify the system is receiving power and ensure the outlet is not on a switch that might get turned off. If the time is flashing that indicates power was lost and the time needs to be set. During normal operation alternates between current time and gallons remaining until regeneration.

When flashing a regeneration will run at the programmed time.See end of programming section for error code explainationsUse the guide below to program the correct settings. You will need to test your water to find out YOUR hardness. Hardness maps are generalizations for the area and your actual hardness may be much higher or lower than indicated. The USER programming has the most commonly changed settings, and you can go through the settings below to get up and running quickly. To get the most efficient results, make sure to go through the MASTER programming below and set your capacity and brine fill settings. If you have iron, set no higher than 7, otherwise set no higher than 14. If you have a lot of iron or very dirty water, set lower. If you have multiple systems, ensure they are set at different times. Typical regeneration process takes roughly 1.5-2 hours Use the result here. It can be adjusted by simply pressing the UP or DOWN button repeatedly, holding down a button will cause time to change quickly. You can press the Extra Cycle button to confirm the setting, or just leave it alone for a few seconds and it will save.These settings (with the exception of the Capacity and Brine Fill settings) typically use the default values and should not need adjusted. Other videos and instructions are not designed for AFWFilters systems and may lead to improper operation. If you change a setting in the MASTER programming that is not shown below use the system reset section to reset the system to defaults and adjust ONLY the settings shown below and in the USER programming section. Then press BOTH the UP and DOWN buttons at the same time and hold for 5-10 seconds until the Parameter Display shows DF.If you do not get the DF parameter, it is possible the time changed or was not set correctly. Press the extra cycle button to get back to the time of day and try again. If a setting is not listed in this chart, DO NOT CHANGE IT.

Max capacity settings will regenerate less often but use more salt.If your controller is showing odd behavior such as erratic display, no display, or showing an error code, a reset can often correct the problem. Start with the soft reset, and if that does not solve the problem move on to the master reset. If the problem persists contact one of our technicians. This should only be used if a soft reset does not work. Once plugged in, verify the system is receiving power and ensure the outlet is not on a switch that might get turned off. You can usually hear the faint hum of the motor, or feel it through the control head, you may have to wait to see if the time dial keeps track of time.To calculate this number you will need to know the system capacity, (for example, a 48k system has a 48,000 grain capacity) and the hardness of the water in grains per gallon (GPG). If you have iron or manganese in the water you will need adjust the hardness to compensate. Take the capacity of the system and divide by this number, this is your total capacity. Multiply the number of people in the house by 75, this is your reserve capacity. Subtract the reserve capacity from the total capacity and this is how many gallons you will set your system to. The gallon capacity of the system is denoted by a gear with the numbers 1-21, these numbers represent the number of gallons x 100 that your system is set to regenerate at. To set your system, pull out the capacity knob and rotate the knob until the correct number is lined up with the white dot. You can use the chart below to help. If unsure of the size of your system you may contact us for assistance. Be sure to include the name the system was ordered under when contacting us. If your water is extremely hard or if you have high water use a larger reserve capacity may be needed. Push the red time set button in and rotate the 24 hour time gear until the current time arrow lines up with the current time of day.

A white arrow will point at the current gallon capacity remaining. Once the countdown reaches zero the system will run a regeneration cycle that night at midnight or 2 AM (depending on the system, the time is usually indicated on a label located on the back of the valve). During regeneration there should be no water being used, and the default time is usually fine for most homes. To have it run at a different time (for example if you work late and are up and using water at the default time) you will need to adjust the current time of day to trick the system into doing so at the desired time. For example: if the system is set to run at 2 AM and you want it to run at 8 AM, set the current time of day 6 hours behind, that way the system will think it is 2 AM when it is actually 8 AM.Make sure to check local plumbing codes and follow any codes that apply. These instructions offer basic plumbing tips and can not cover every situation. They are intended as a supplement and should not replace local plumbing codes or actual plumbing experience. Use Teflon tape, pipe dope, or joint compound as necessary to ensure a proper seal.The system uses O-rings to provide a water tight seal, and after checking each O-ring for any obvious damage a small amount of silicone lubricant or vegetable oil can be used to help ensure a good seal. The valve handle(s) should be facing up when connecting it to the system.Damage from overtightening is not covered under warranty. In the SERVICE position ( ) water will flow through the systems and come out treated. In the BYPASS position ( ) water skips the system and remains untreated. When in the BYPASS position, the system can be disconnected from the bypass valve for service or maintenance without cutting into your plumbing and without shutting the water off in the home. If not 100% positive, you can slightly open the water supply after cutting into the pipe to determine where the water is coming from so the system can be connected correctly.

Improper flow direction will prevent proper operation and can damage your system and your plumbing. When looking directly at the connections, the inlet (untreated) water will be on the left and the outlet (treated) water will be on the right ( ). There are arrows molded or printed on both the control valve and the bypass valve that can be used to verify flow direction. If you have any plumbing related questions, please direct them to a local plumber. It is a good idea to dry fit all your connections before cutting into your plubing and finalizing them to ensure everything lines up like it should and that you have everything you need. It will also minimize having to leave your water off and your plumbing cut open because you forgot a fitting. Using a simple P-trap as shown ( ) is ideal as well, but a stand pipe with a diameter of at least 1.5 inches (38 mm) is adequate. Failure to do so can lead to flooding and water damage. Slowly open up the bypass valve just to the point of allowing water to enter the system at a trickle, and leave it like that until the tank is full of water. If you prefilled the system it should only take a minute or two. Once the tank is full, slowly open the bypass valve the rest of the way. Allow water to run out of the faucet until no more air comes out, then close the faucet.Open a nearby COLD faucet and check to ensure there are no leaks that show up when water is running.The water may be discolored at first, this is normal. Let water run out of the faucet at least 20 minutes (this cleans out the sysetm and ensures everything is flowing correctly), or until any discoloration clears up. Depending on the system there may not be any discoloration, it may clear up almost immediately, or it may take a couple of hours. Once the water is cleared up a manual regeneration should be run.On digital systems, hold the extra cycle button for 5-10 second until the backwash starts.

Please Note: Digital systems only With the brine tank empty the system will not draw water out of the brine tank during the brine draw cycle. The resin is precharged and the brine water is not needed for the first cycle, the initial cycle is run to ensure the brine tank has the correct amount of water for the first automatic cycle. Since the system cleans itself most particulate in the water will be trapped and rinsed off by the regeneration cycle, eliminating the need for a sediment prefilter.Make sure the system is set to regenerate at a time when no one will use water, and make sure you do not have anything that may automatically use water while the system is regenerating. Water softeners work by exchanging sodium ions with the calcium and magnesium ions that make up hard water. In most cases the amount of sodium added to the water is not noticable, but in homes with very high hardness or high sodium levels to begin with it may cause a salty taste to the water. The best way to alleviate this issue is to use a reverse osmosis (RO) system for your drinking water, as this will remove the sodium and provide bottled quality water. In general though the potassium chloride is not recommended (see Brine Tank section).Is my system damaged? The tank itself has a cap designed to keep the media in the tank, so once it is place in the correct position the contents will return to the bottom. Any mixing of tank contents will correct itself after being placed in service.This is an internal designation only and does NOT mean you received the SE. The SE controller has been discontinued for long enough it would be impossible to send one out anymore. This image will show the differences for easy reference. If your system is unloaded, gravel will typically be in a small bag either in it's own box or packaged with other components. Gravel will appear like small rocks, the exact kind and amount will depend on your system.

If you have more than one system you can use the simple guide below to help identify the most common medias. If you are unsure what you have feel free to contact us to ensure you place the media in the correct tank.This is fine, and when screwing on the control head just ensure the riser feeds into the pilot hole and it will correct itself.There are a few ways to do this. It is seated very securely up inside the pilot hole, inside a groove, so it can be hard to see. You should be able to feel it as a slight bump up inside the pilot, if it was missing there would be a significant gap where it was supposed to be. While systems that are installed correctly and fuctioning properly will not have issues, the top basket is included as a saftey measure to prevent problems and it is recommended to use it if present. Those who recommend leaving it off usually do so to prevent buildup on that basket that can lead to flow restrictions (more common in high iron waters), but it is usually easier to clean or replace a top basket periodically than cleaning out clogged fixtures if something does go wrong.The one on the top helps prevent salt from falling down into the brine well and messing with the float assembly. If you have a second one it can be used on the bottom, but it doesn't really serve purpose and can be saved as a spare if you prefer. We recommend the pelleted softener salt as it tends to have fewer issues with solidifying and bridging. If you have iron in the water, a softener salt that has an iron cleaning additive will help extend the life of the resin. If you have the quick connect style, make sure it is pushed in all the way, when you first push it in it will stop, but if you push a little harded it will lock in and seal. On the compression style, make sure the tubing is pushed fully into the fitting BEFORE tightening the nut, and make sure the nut is threaded correctly and not crooked.

You can run a manual regeneration and watch the brine tank during the brine draw cycle (BD on digital valves) to ensure the water is being drawn out of the tank, and during the brine fill (BF on digital) watch to see if water is coming out around the fitting. If water is NOT being drawn out during the brine draw cycle and water is leaking around the fitting, it is not sealing correctly. The control head is designed to put a set amount of water in the tank, and should that fail for some reason, the float assembly will prevent the tank from overfilling. The level of water in the brine tank will vary depending on system size, brine tank size, system settings, and amount of salt in the tank, so it is not uncommon for water to be above the salt level. As long as the water is not up to the overflow there is no problem. At a minimum there should be enough salt for the next regeneration, the amount needed will vary depending on system size and settings, but a minimum of 1-2 bags of salt (40-80 pounds) will cover most systems.It is your choice to add salt freqently to keep the brine tank full or only add salt when it starts to get low. Average homes will use 1-2 bags (40-80 pounds) of salt per month. Homes with high hardness or high water usage can expect higher salt usage. Most people who want to use potassium chloride are concerned about the salt it is putting in the water. For the average home the amount of sodium in the water will add little to your overall sodium intake (a single slice of regular bread will have 3-4 times as much sodium as a typical glass of softened water). If you are on a sodium restrictive diet a reverse osmosis (RO) system will remove the sodium and generally be less expensive than using potassium chloride. In most places postassium chloride costs 3-4 times as much a standard salt pellets. In addition, it takes 30% more potassium to regenerate to the same level as regular salt pellets.

If using potassium chloride you will need to either increase your brine fill by 30% or decrease the system capacity by 30%.Is this an error code? It is NOT an error code, if there is an error the error icon will be displayed and the error code will be the only thing displayed. Is this an error code? It is NOT an error code, if there is an error the error icon will be displayed and the error code will be the only thing displayed. When flashing it indicates that a regeneration is schudule for the next set time. Only used on metered water softners, it indicates water is flowing through the system. Match the number on your display with the number on the error chart below for troubleshooting tips. After reconnecting the piston, inspect the control head for any broken, worn, or disconnected parts, and replace or reconnect any that are found. Perform a hard reset. After verifying programming run the system through a regeneration and watch the motor to ensure that it is moving the piston, if it is not the motor needs to be replaced. If error still occurs contact us for support. Plug the unit back in and check the master programming and ensure valve type and system type are correct for your system. Initiate a manual regeneration and verify it progresses through the steps correctly. If error reoccurs, contact us for support. Check your settings to ensure the system is setup to regeneration automatically. Check the meter to ensure it is not stuck and that the gallons remaining is counting down. If error occurs again contact us for support System will automatically recover from this state. Please note that depending on your system you may not see all the options shown. Changes should only be made as directed in the programming section or by one of our support technicians. The brine line flow control (BLFC) size (usually indicated by a sticker near the brine fitting) indicates the rate at which the brine tank is filled, 0.5 and 1.0 GPM are most common.https://www.ortorehab.se/images/briggs-and-stratton-21032-repair-manual.pdf